People seriously hate on Jaipur. We’ve heard from several sources (admittedly some were not first-hand) that you just get in and get out as fast as possible or better yet skip it altogether. To those people, or to those quoting them to me, I say „Have you been to Delhi?” Jaipur, and Rajasthan in general, has really felt like an upswing. Sure, there’s all the nasty hallmarks of India: ridiculous traffic, foul smells, in-your-face poverty. But people (and cows and dogs for that matter) here seem to go about their business with more pride and class and markedly less desperation than in Uttar Pradesh.

It may just be that the Rajasthanis are a good-looking, colorful bunch who can make the most menial task look dignified (okay, I omit the peeing and spitting from this generalization). It may be that everything in Jaipur is painted pink and that looks nice in the afternoon sunlight. It may be that we saw our first glimpse of low mountains and hinterland from the intricate and timeless Amber Fort. (Shanty towns always look nicer when tucked into green hillsides rather than scattered as far as the eye can see across dusty plains.) It may be that the animals looked a little fatter and more content. Whatever the reason Jaipur left us with a good impression and it comes wholly recommended from all three of us.